Make a Prayer Plant Quilt with Rob

Welcome to the jungle everybody. We’ve got another fantastic quilt in our botanical series for you today.

Raw edge applique finished off with our stained glass leading.

Let’s get started. Coming at you a couple different ways for the project today. We actually have a full retail pattern you can purchase from the link below and get the whole piece that I’m going to show you for your tracing.

Or if you’re like me and you want to do it on your own or make your own size, we also have the free printable in that same description below. You can bounce down there and print it out.

And I’m going to use the free printable map today for our reference when I’m talking about our pieces and whatnot.

So like all fusible applique projects, one of the things I love most is to use fantastic batik fabric. Batik is great because it’s got a higher thread count so it doesn’t unravel along the edges although our cool stained glass leading technique is going to take care of that raw edge also.

But these are Robert Kaufman batiks. They’re just fantastic to work with.

I’m using the same greens and other colors throughout my series here.

So for today’s project on the background, the back ground color you’re going to need a yard.

A yard of your dark green, ¾ of your medium, ¾of the magenta or the highlight for the veiny texture for the prayer plant.

And then just a quarter of a yard for the light for you there.

I’m also using a bunch of Heat N Bond fusible web.

That’s my favorite fusible web. My glue back, I just said the same word twice. With the glue that hold it all together.I have the ready bias from Clover.

This is the leaded stained glass look that we’re going to use.

It has the glue on the back already.

So the Clover mini iron, hot and ready to go for us today is a fantastic companion to that project.

And then also you’re going to want your little twin needle.

And I’m going to show you how to thread up your machine for that today and also use it.This is the3. 0 millimeter.

That size is set to fit beautifully on your quarter of an inch ready bias there so you get two lines of stitching at the same time. And that works fantastic.

So before we can talk about the stitching though we’ve got to build the quilt out. We’ve got to get our pattern ready.

And so if you’re working from my patter that you’ve purchased today I want to point out I’m trying to save the world one stitchat a time.

And I’m trying to do it by not overusing paper.

And so what we’ve done in this is we’ve actually stacked up, stop moving so it quiets down a little bit.

Sow e have stacked up the inner pieces of the light green and the dark greens is inside the medium green body.

So when you go ahead and trace this onto your fusible web.

Firstof all you’re going to need two pieces.

It’s only 17 inches wide.

So you can see here that I’ve taken my two pieces.

And I’ve just used my blue painter’s tape so I can press over the top of it when necessary.

And this is the tracing just off of the pattern as you saw originally.

But then my next step is I’m going to cut out just the fusible before any fabrics adhere at all.

Just the fusible, leaving a couple of inches of like a pancake perimeter here of the outside of the leaf removing these other pieces to goon to another colored fabric.

Let me show you what that looks like as it’s on the fabric.

I’m going to take a moment and slide this stuff out of the way.

And this is what I’m referring to.

This is the back side but it’s batik so which side is that, right? Of the large piece you see, this is the entire outside of the prayer plant leaf.

And now you see just that perimeter of the fusible web.

If you haven’t used much fusible web in the past maybe you’re not aware but the more layers of fusible web you build up, it can be a little bit more difficult to machine quilt though.

So the other thing I’m doing here is I’m reducing the amount of layers so it becomes easier and easier to machine quilt through at the end of the project.So that is the exterior of that.

And then what you’re going to see here on my dark green are all of those pieces that have originally been in the middle of that cut out.

And you can see I’ve shaved or I have separated, that’s the word I’m looking for, the extra pieces to fit the mall back in here from around the outside.

And now all we need to do is we’re goiter get out our awesome shark rotary cutter.

That’s your little 14 millimeter rotary cutter.

Hold it like a pen.And now you can come in here with your cutting mat below And you’re just going to start and you’re going to follow the edges.

And I want you to stay as close as you can but we’ve created a little overlap in the pattern for you for your pieces. And then that stained glass leading, that ready bias is going to go ahead and cover the gap as well.

Let’s just change directions so it’s easier on my body.I”m going to come at it from another way here.

And I can either move my cutter through or if it was on a smaller piece of fabric, I could have gone ahead and moved the fabric around as well.

So what I now need to do, because I wanted to show you how I had all of these pieces.We now need to get all of our pieces cut out so we can build our layout.

So I’m going to take a moment, get these pieces cut out and actually clear off the table so I can bring in my nice ironing surface, I’ll be right back.

As a reminder just go ahead and make sure you have all of your pieces cut out first because we want to put them all down on our quilt background.

Now our quilt background right here is you can even see on the little free printable, it’s 34 inches by 42 inches. And I’ve cut that pretty exact, trimm edit and all that and ready to go.I’ve ironed it out to the best of my ability.

And I’ve built myself a nice flat ironing surface that’s covered in several layers of batting so that I can go ahead and just iron everything flat in place without having to move it to another ironing surface.

I hope that makes sense.Now I got a little head start for us.

What I’ve done is I’ve put down the large background of the prayer plant leaf.But I want to point out real quick a couple of things.

First of all of course we have to peel off the paper because we don’t want to have to move these things as we go through.

So the paper is gone.Hopefully you can see that the glue is just in that perimeter ring around there.

And the non the leaf itself, this is kind of the narrow part or where there’s the little tooth right here. The bottom of the leaf has more of the large broad rounded part. So this is the top. And the top is four inches down from this upper edge.

And then I just basically center the rest of the leaf inside. And I just measured for us.

I’m basically about 4 ½ inches from either side of the edge.

We want to make sure that we’re down four inches from thetop because we do have this little peak portion of the vein work that comes up past the leaf.So just make sure you have plenty of layout room.

And now we’re ready to get started with bringing in the next piece.

The next piece is going to be my light green.

In your pattern it’s number 3-1.

And it’s a single piece that fills in basically from top down through.

And in the pattern you can see itself that that little tooth I just referred to is actually part of the section that is kind of hidden.

So it kind of gets hidden right underneath there as an anchor point.

And the other reason we put in all of our appliques first is we make sure everything lines up before we iron anything down.

So I’m not going to press this yet.

I’m going to now go ahead, get into a little bit more of my caffeinated mode and start to put in the dark green pieces first.

I will point out before we hit the gas that the paper, like I said, is still on it.

I know what the numbering system is.

And that way I can come back into the printable and I can find that number right there.

So this piece is going to fit in all the way across here.

And again, peel off the paper as you’re getting ready to get the pieces in set.

And as you peel it should come off nice like this.

If a little bit of glue were to stick to the paper, don’t you worry about it.

We just need most of it covered, ok? And then one of my techniques as I work within these pieces is I’m going to drop it down here.

And you can tell by these big flat edges here that we want the pretty light green to come up on top.

The other thing I want to point out real quick is if you’re looking at the printable, the first gap of the pink vine work, or vein work, excuse me.

It’s open.There’s no dark green in here. So I actually set that into the second green gap, light green gap. And now what I’m going to do is I’m going to start to slide it out, lift this back without moving too much of it.

And I’m just going to gently start to work the dark green on top of the medium green and underneath the light green there.

Now it may not be in perfect alignment.

Soone of the things I’m going to do and this is why we use the big green piece first isif these pieces down here were maybe sticking off of the edge, maybe everything needs tobe shifted a little bit this way.

So I can pick this up, but I can move that, I can tugon this a little bit.

You can see I can make adjustments to make sure.

And anytime you’re not, you’re concerned if it’s supposed to go far enough over, you can look at that same piece and you can see it’s down here.

So that looks like it’s going a little closet co the edge.

So let’s just take all of this and we can slide it underneath that light green a little bit better.

So now I’m going to go ahead and fill in the rest of the dark green pieces so that I can put in that wonderful magenta on the top and then we’ll get back to the leading.

Ok so you can see that I was just actually finishing up peeling the paper off of the magenta piece.

And I’m not touching it too much because I wanted you to see what I’m doing.

Now the best thing about the Heat N Bond Feather lite is it doesn’t have a real tendency to stick to itself.

So I’m not too worried. It’s not like duct tape in the wind at the moment. But I want to handle this as little as possible because all of these little fingers and things are just goingto go everywhere.

So we’re just going to take a deep breath.And I’m going to flip it over and I’m going to start working it in, moving my pieces about.

But I’m not going to worry about any one of these little fingers at all until I just get the majority of it down in place, right? Because you can see how it all just moves around as I go.

Now these little fingers are going to line up as you can see in your print out with thelight green and the dark green pieces as you work through.

So this is also going to help us get a little bit of our final alignment in.

And just take your time.I find sometimes tweezers or a stiletto or something like that is going to help.

But you can see I just want to lay, start to lay these pieces along their perspective channels as I go.

And it takes quite a while just to get it just right. There it is, perfect and looking so good. A little adjustment right there.Wonderful.

I take my hands and just do a quick little pat because I don’t want to press down any creases if possible. Ok there’s a couple little more pieces I just remembered. Oop I was going for a ride, good catch.

We’ve got a little pink piece that fits down here at the bottom. This magenta piece for us,right down there. And then I’ve got a few more of my dark greens that fill in this gap right up here.

And yes I am stalling just long enough to get my iron good and hot.Perfect. Come on now. There you go. And the last piece.

And now remember all of this edge work is going to be covered up with the black leading so let’s not fuss too much about anything.

It’s not a perfect line up but I’m going to come in here at the top center and I’m going to press, one, two, three, and I’m going to lift.

And I’m going to press. And what I’m doing is I’m working from the center because I want to keep all of the batting and everything or the backing flattening out as I go.

But I’m also kind of avoiding thatouter perimeter at the moment so what I’m trying to do is iron everything as flat aspossible so when I iron the outer edge, the part that just has the glue on the back ofthe leaf itself, it will be pulled taut.

And that will make life easier for quilting.It will make it look a little flatter when it’s finished. So again just working from the middle. It’s one of the reasons these cordless irons are so fantastic because I’m not dragging my cord all over everything. I just love this tool. But because it’s cordless it’s not as hot all the way through, meaning it’s not staying hot so I need to return it to the base because I want a good bond on here as I go.

And that’s just going to take a few seconds. I’m going to let it warm back up.

Right I’m just checking all my work.Things are going fantastic.

And I tell you what, I’m going to get all of this pressed out for you and I’ll be back to finish up with the leading. You can now see how nice and flat and well adhered everything is.

And one of the things I want to point out is kind of a pitfall with fusible applique, you can accidentally over iron it or overheat it.So I wanted to heat everything down with a big iron first.

And now as I do the leading, instead of hitting it with the big iron, I’m going to use the clover mini iron for control as well as to not overheat the rest of the applique pieces. Let me show you how I handled the leading,kind of my strategy.

Follow me to the quilt.You can see that all of the applique pieces,every raw edge has been covered with the leading itself.

But because there’s so many of these long skinny pieces, what I found as I started on my project is they were coming up a littlebit as I was working.

So the way we’re going to handle this together today is we’re going to do the small pieces first and we’re going to iron them down and then we’re going tostitch them.

So what I want to do is I always want to have my longest pieces cover up allmy short little pieces.

So we’re going to line up between the light green and the dark green and then between the dark green and the medium green on both sides of the plant.

And then we’ll finish by going all the way around the magenta color.

So in order to do that we’re going to have our hot ribbon and you can see there’s glue on one side here.

One of my strategies here is I like to go ahead and prepare the edge as it’s going to be coming in.

So this edge is going to be running, excuse me I should try to show you I’m going along that light green here in a second.

So the first thing I want to do is I want to prepare my edge at a bit of an angle.

And that just helps get the bulk out from underneath later.

And now with the clover mini iron I’m going to hold that in place.

And it takes a good couple of seconds to really get a nice bond.

And the better the bond the easier life is going to be as we twin needle stitch this all down.

So you can see I’m going pretty slow.

And then I chose this piece one because it’s in the middle but mostly because it’s got a bit of a weird little curve in here.

So we’re going to curve up in here. And then I’m actually just going to let it cool off for a second.

That’s going to help everything bond so that when I bend it back around the other side I won’t be fighting against it already being hot.

And I’m actually going to get a little bit of a fold in there because it was a sharp corner.

And then I could the nice soft corners like this gradual.

And of course I still have all the leading just connected to my roll. I just cut it as I go, I don’t try to pre cut the size because you don’t want to be too wasteful with it.

And also you want to try not to stretch it.

Here’s another one of those little tight corners so hopefullyyou can see I’m kind of folding it up and over, up and over.

And I’m going to just barely go over that magenta there.

And then what I want to do now, come in here with my scissor.

I’m going to trim that line, ok? And then I want you to see how I’ve gone ahead and set up the sewing machine so follow me around to the backside of the machine and you can see this get all set up.

So if you’ve never worked with a twin needle before it’s actually easier than it sounds.

It’s simply a single shaft but then it widen sout into two needle tips.

You do need two different spools of thread.

And not all machines actually feature a second spool holder or some of us can’t find them sometimes when they’re trying to set up their sewing machine, guilty.

So what I’ve done today is I’ve used my Man Sewing coffee cup and that’s actually a pretty good functional thing.

I’vegot a nice spool of Aurifil thread.

So it’s going to stand up on its own.

And then youcan see some blue tape and a safety pin with the backwards end or the non functioning endof the safety pin.

That’s going to make a nice little eye that I can thread through and that’s just going to keep that thread from getting caught anywhere it’s not supposed to.

I”m going to come back to that thread.

The first thread I’m going to thread is the normal thread to the machine.

We’re going to independently thread all the way to the needle.

So as I’m setting this up, why don’t come all the way closer so you can see the front of the machine. So let’s start on our number one spool,our standard spool.

And we’re going to thread it just like normal.So I’m going to comeover here and I’m going to drop around.

My presser foot is always up when I threada sewing machine because that way the tension system is open.

And I’m going to take this thread all the way down.

And now hopefully you can see.

And you know what, I’m going to slide my little sample fabric, we’re going to talk about in a second, back here.

Maybe you can see now better that there’s two needles right there.

So the first thread I brought down I’m going to thread the left hand needle.

And then the other one I’ll bring it all the way independently down and thread the right hand needle.

And at this moment I”m going to drop my presser foot just so I can control the thread a little bit better.

And your needle threaders will not work in this situation because they’re set up for your center needle position and right now you’re not in center needle.

Okso we’re going back to where the other spool was so the thread had been coming up through that safety pin I blue taped to the back of the machine.

And at this point I’m just kind of watching and I want it to kind of come underneath some sort of thread guide to keep it out of the way.

And now it’s going to follow the same thread path I had done earlier with the first thread.

Oops my presser foot was down so let’s make sure we lift it back up.

But I could feel that the tension wasn’t right on my thread.

And now we come back around and I can feel that I have a nice squeeze on that thread. That’s a real important one.

You want to make sure that these stay in there so your threads aren’t whipping around because every corner your thread is going to twist up a little bit.

And if your thread breaks after about seven or eight corners don’t be surprised just rethread both needles from the top starting at your number one spool of thread and just reth read both spools one at a time all the way through.

And then that should take all the twists out of the thread that were generated by the cornering and the way we’re going to pivot.

I’m going to get my threads under the presser foot but we have one last thing we want to do.

And I want to talk about this two ways.What we’re going to do is we’re going to come up here to our tension assembly.

And your normal tension assembly is about a four.

So I”m going to reduce it by taking it to a smaller number like a three.

That’s puttinga little bit less squeeze on my top threads because we are now going to top stitch this all through just the quilt top.

Here’s my example.

This would be the back of our project.The bobbin thread is going to be zig and zagged back and forth between those two needle eyes.

So what we really want is we want only the quilt top.

We’re not going to be doing this through the batting and the backing.

It’s too much layers.So I’ve just re threaded the machine so I want to now do a practice test. So I’ve even put on a little piece of scrap leading.

And what we’re going to do now is come in here and I have a little line that’s right in the middle of my presser foot. And that middle line I’m trying to keep in the middle of my leading as I start to stitch.

And let’s just all take a practice just together.

I’m going to take a couple of stitches to begin.

I don’t back stitch with my twin needle but I will often do this trick.

I just hang onto it.

So it’s not really going anywhere I take a couple of stitches in place.

But I’m not asking the machine to reverse because of the twin needles.

I just find that works the best.

Once you geta little smoother you can get up to speed here.And you’re just going to run thoset win needles right through that leading.

And I put a little gradual curve in here to makes ure I was warmed up this morning.

And every now and again I will need to stop and adjust and we’ll do that a lot in our corners. We’re just coming through. Drive your fabric like a trailer today like you’re pulling a trailer. Go into your corners wide.

Watch that center mark on your foot.

Yes, the practice piece looks fantastic so it is time to start on the real project.

So what I’m going to do as you remember we’ve just done that one little section of leading and while I’m nice and comfortable here, we’re going to just do it.

So I’m going to rotate it so the least amount of the quilt is underneath the machine as possible. This is not free motion.

My feed dogs are up.I’m going to make sure my threads are nicely organized. And I do want to be able to hang onto them while I’m getting started. If you ever get a bad start don’t force it through it.

Just start over.

Ok and I’m going to start on the very edge of that black leading right where the magenta color starts up there.

And now I’m just going to very slowly let the machine do all the work as I start to make my way along the leading with both of those needles.

It gives a beautiful parallel stitch look.

Now as I come into this stop corner here because this is where I did that fold, I’m going to take a stitch, let the needles come up and I”m going to slightly pivot without moving much.

Any extra slack that would have been in the thread is going to get sucked down to the bottom.

So if you hear a weird noise don’t panic. If you hear a couple weird noises and then your thread breaks you now know why it happened but something happened. You may be did too large of a pivot.

And I’m only speaking from experience.So I’m going to rotate this about 45 degrees. And I’ve done as much as a 180 pivot and not had it break thread.

I’ve done a lot of this lately. I’ve been really enjoying it. And then those more soft gradual corners I’m just going to try like I said arc my way around.

But I’m looking at the needle that’s on the narrower corner and just like I said trying to drive it like a trailer. Swinging wide on the outsides.

Staying tight on the inside.I made a real nice corner there.

But as I come into this tight corner I’m going to probably have to do a couple of pivots.So one two up. Let’s pivot.

Now I’ve got a folded piece of my leading there so I want to make sure I don’t get that caught under the presser foot while I pivot, pivot, pivot or stitch, stitch I should say.One more slight pivot.

And then I’m going to end by locking that stitching down by holding it in place at the magenta color. And now I’m going to bring my needle up here and I’m going to pull out. And resist yanking too far. I want to just own the threads. I’m going to cut here. Let’s get that bobbin thread.

Cut that bobbin thread.And now you can see that we’ve got the leading stitched down all along here and then just a reminder. It’s working from the center out. I’m going to do both sides of the light greens.

Then I’m going to move out to my dark greens and do these edges. And then finish with the magenta here.

And then the magenta around the outside edge.

And please follow me to the quilt one more time.I want to show you the last little trick that I love to do.

And it’s both a strategy for construction but it’s also a great quilting technique.

The applique pieces themselves should be held down by the leading but in case you missed or something was a little tight or your gapsweren’t just perfect.

What I do is I match my threads.

So I’ve got a dark green andI’ve actually machine quilted, free motion machine style this time.

Feed dogs down, intothe applique fabrics themselves.

So there’s green, there’s blue, there’s lime.

And then to finish off the machine quilting just kind of echo style like all of quilts in this series.

We’re just going around using the presser foot as my distance marker as I create the echo quilting in the background fabric to kind of give it that wonderful slightly Hawaiian effect as well with echo quilting.

So you know I love my nature quilts.

And you know I love my applique quilts.

And I’m starting to get pretty hooked on the stained glass effect as well.

I hope you’re loving it.

We want to hear from you in the comments below.

Make sure you’re subscribed.

We’ll see you next time right here at Man Sewing.

Oh, hey are you still in here.

I thought you would have been checking out some of those other great videos.

You know we’ve got a link there, over there.And hey don’t forget to subscribe.Make sure you never miss a minute of the action.We’ll catch you next time, at Man Sewing.

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